How to Winterise Your Coachbuilt Caravan or Motorhome

Winter's coming, and your caravan's about to face months of frost, damp, and doing absolutely nothing.

You might be thinking: "I've spent good money adapting this caravan to work for me - what if I mess something up trying to protect it?" That worry's completely valid. The last thing you need is expensive damage because you weren't sure what to do.

Here's the thing: winterising doesn't have to be complicated or stressful. With a few straightforward steps, you'll protect your investment and have total peace of mind until spring. This guide walks you through everything - from draining your water system to choosing the right cover - so you can store your caravan with confidence.

Let's go.

Step 1 – Drain Down and Protect Your Water System

Frozen pipes aren't just inconvenient - they're expensive. When water freezes inside your caravan's plumbing, it expands. That means split pipes, cracked fittings, and a hefty repair bill come spring.

Start by emptying everything. Open every tap, drain your fresh and waste water tanks completely, and don't forget the water heater. That's where water loves to hide. Run your water pump for a few seconds after draining to push out any lingering moisture trapped in the lines.

Now here's where people often get it wrong: they think draining is enough. It's not. You need to protect what's left behind. Pour non-toxic antifreeze into your water systems - the kind specifically designed for caravans, not car engines. This'll stop any residual water from turning into ice bombs inside your pipes.

Empty your toilet flush tank and cassette, too. Leave all taps open during storage. Why? Because even a tiny bit of trapped water can freeze and cause damage. Think of it like leaving a bottle of fizzy drink in the freezer - it'll explode eventually.

Top tip: If you're storing your caravan outside through the winter months, antifreeze isn't optional. It's essential.

Step 2 – Clean and Dry Every Surface

Damp is the silent enemy. You won't see it doing damage until it's too late - by then, you're looking at mould, mildew, and that musty smell that never quite goes away.

Give your caravan a proper deep clean before storage. Wipe down every surface, vacuum the upholstery, and clean inside cupboards. Remove all food and anything that could attract mice or other unwelcome guests. Trust me, you don't want to open up in the spring and find evidence of a rodent rave.

Leave your fridge and freezer doors ajar. Completely ajar, not just cracked open. This lets air circulation do its job and prevents that horrible stale smell from building up over long periods.

Here's something counterintuitive: your caravan needs to breathe, even when it's doing nothing. Place moisture traps or dehumidifiers inside to catch condensation. A small bowl of salt or silica gel packets works brilliantly, too - cheap, effective, and chemical-free.

Don't forget about fixed beds. Strip them completely and store bedding at home. Leaving duvets and pillows inside just gives moisture somewhere cosy to settle.

Top tip: Leave wardrobe doors open and all internal cupboards slightly ajar. Air circulation is your best defence against damp taking hold.

Step 3 – Care for the Exterior Bodywork

Your caravan's body panels take a battering through winter. Rain, frost, road salt from passing vehicles - it all adds up. A bit of care now saves a lot of repair work later.

Wash your caravan thoroughly. And I mean thoroughly - roof, sides, underbody, the lot. Road salt is corrosive. If you've driven on UK roads recently, it's definitely lurking somewhere on your caravan. Get it off before it eats into metal parts or seals.

Once it's clean and dry, apply a protective wax or sealant to the body panels. Think of it like moisturiser for your caravan - it creates a barrier against the elements. Check every rubber seal, especially around windows, doors, and roof lights. Even tiny cracks can let water in, and water ingress is a nightmare to fix.

Spray locks, hinges, and window seals with silicone lubricant. This stops them from seizing up over winter and makes your life easier when spring arrives.

Top tip: Inspect for existing damage now. Small cracks or panel issues only get worse when frost gets into them. Sorting them before winter keeps your caravan in top condition.

Step 4 – Fit a Quality Caravan Cover

You might think any cover will do. It won't. The wrong cover can actually cause more problems than it solves.

Choose a breathable waterproof cover - not a cheap tarp from the hardware shop. Tarps trap moisture underneath, which defeats the entire point. Brands like Pro-Tec or Maypole are designed specifically for caravans and allow air to move while keeping rain out.

Never cover a wet caravan. I know it sounds obvious, but people do it. Make sure everything's completely dry first, or you're basically creating a damp chamber. For coachbuilt caravans with an overcab section, get a cover that fits properly and allows airflow around that area.

Think of a good caravan cover like a winter coat - it needs to protect without suffocating.

Top tip: A quality cover is worth the investment. It'll protect your bodywork, reduce cleaning come spring, and give you peace of mind through the winter months.

Step 5 – Protect the Battery and Electrical Systems

Batteries hate being ignored. Leave them connected and unused through winter, and they'll slowly drain away to nothing.

Fully charge both your leisure and vehicle batteries before you store your caravan over winter. Then disconnect them - or better yet, remove them completely and store them indoors somewhere dry. Batteries don't like extreme cold or damp.

If you've got mains hook-up at home, you can use a trickle charger instead. This keeps the battery topped up without overcharging. Just make sure it's a proper caravan trickle charger, not something designed for cars.

Check all fuses and terminals while you're at it. Corrosion loves to creep in during long periods of inactivity. A quick inspection now saves frustration later.

Top tip: Write down which battery came from where. It sounds silly, but when spring arrives, you'll thank yourself for labelling them.

Step 6 – Maintain Tyres, Brakes, and Chassis

Tyres develop flat spots when they sit in one position too long. It's just physics - the weight of your caravan pressing down on the same patch of rubber for months.

Move your caravan slightly every few weeks if you can. Even just a metre forward or back helps rotate the tyres. If that's not practical, inflate tyres to the manufacturer's maximum recommended pressure. This reduces the contact patch and minimises flat spots.

For long-term storage, use axle stands. This takes weight off the tyres completely and helps prevent suspension damage, too.

Don't forget the brakes and chassis. Check brake linkages and handbrake cables for rust. Spray exposed metal parts - like the hitch and jockey wheel - with anti-rust lubricant. Road salt and winter moisture are brutal on bare metal.

Top tip: A little preventive maintenance on your chassis saves big money down the line. Rust doesn't take holidays.

Step 7 – Choose the Right Storage Option

Where you store your caravan matters almost as much as how you prepare it.

Indoor storage is ideal - it protects from frost, rain, and UV damage. But let's be honest, not everyone has a massive barn lying around. If you're storing outside, park on level ground and use a breathable caravan cover. Chock the wheels properly and engage the handbrake.

Security matters, too. Wheel locks, hitch locks, and alarm systems aren't just for insurance purposes - they genuinely deter thieves. Check your caravan insurance policy to see what security measures they require. Many insurers offer better rates if you use approved storage facilities.

If you're storing at home, park facing the prevailing wind (usually southwest in the UK). Angle the nose slightly down to help rain run off rather than pool on the roof.

Top tip: Good storage isn't just about protection from weather - it's about protecting your investment from theft and damage too.

Step 8 – Book a Pre-Winter Service or Repair

Small problems become big problems when you ignore them for months. That tiny crack in the body work? By spring, it could be letting water into your insulation.

Schedule a professional check before winter sets in. Get your bodywork inspected for cracks, panel damage, or any signs of water ingress. Have gas systems checked for safety - gas leaks are serious, and the gas supply needs to be completely isolated during storage anyway.

If you've got a heating system like Truma or Alde, get it serviced. You want it working perfectly when you need it next, not discovering problems when you're trying to use it.

Winter care isn't just about storage - it's about making sure your caravan emerges from hibernation ready for adventure. A pre-winter inspection catches issues while they're still small and cheap to fix.

Top tip: Professional maintenance keeps your caravan in top condition and can actually increase its resale value. It's not an expense - it's an investment.

What About Gas Systems and Appliances?

Gas isn't something to mess about with. Getting this wrong isn't just inconvenient—it's dangerous.

Turn off your gas supply completely at the cylinder. Not just the appliances—the actual bottle itself. Close the valve fully and, if you can, disconnect the regulator too. This stops any potential leaks during storage and keeps everything safe.

Check for leaks before you shut down for winter. Spray soapy water around the connections and watch for bubbles. If you spot any, get them fixed now. Don't leave a dodgy connection sitting there for months—it won't improve with age.

Here's what people often wonder: should you remove gas bottles completely or leave them connected? If you're storing indoors or in a secure facility, you can leave them. But they must be turned off at the cylinder. If you're storing outside in an exposed area, consider removing them and storing somewhere ventilated—like a shed or outbuilding, never inside your house.

Gas bottles always need to be upright and in a ventilated space. They're designed to release gas from the top, not the side. Lay them down and you're asking for trouble.

Don't forget your gas water heater. Drain it completely, just like the rest of your water systems. Any water left inside can freeze, crack the heat exchanger, and leave you with a hefty repair bill. Most models have a specific drain valve—check your manual if you're not sure where it is.

Top tip: Take a photo of your gas setup before disconnecting anything. Come spring, you'll know exactly how it all goes back together.

Preparing Your Accessible Adaptations for Winter

Your accessibility equipment isn't just expensive—it's essential. Protecting it through winter matters just as much as protecting the caravan itself.

Wheelchair lifts, ramps, and hoists all have moving parts that hate moisture and freezing temperatures. Give them a thorough clean, then spray all moving parts with water-displacing lubricant. This stops corrosion and keeps mechanisms smooth.

Electronic controls need special attention. If your lift or ramp has electrical components, check they're completely sealed and protected. Water ingress into control boxes is expensive to fix. Some systems have drainage points—make sure they're clear.

Consider where moisture might collect. Hydraulic systems, in particular, don't like water mixing with their fluid. Check all hoses and connections for damage. Even tiny cracks can let moisture in during freezing weather.

If you've got powered equipment with its own battery, treat it like your leisure battery. Fully charge it, then either disconnect it or put it on a trickle charger. Batteries that sit dead through the winter rarely recover properly.

Here's something you might not have considered: if you remove mobility aids for storage, don't just chuck them in a damp garage. Store them somewhere dry, preferably indoors. Wheelchairs, walkers, and other equipment can suffer from rust and deterioration, too.

Test everything before you put the caravan away. You want to know it's all working now, not discover problems when you're trying to get ready for your first trip next year.

Top tip: Keep instruction manuals and warranty information somewhere accessible at home. If something does go wrong over winter, you'll have the details you need to get help quickly.

Create a Spring Restart Checklist

Winterising is only half the job. Bringing your caravan back to life needs just as much care—probably more.

Start with a visual inspection before you do anything else. Walk around the outside looking for damage, check seals for cracks, and peek underneath for rust or corrosion. Winter's harsh. Sometimes things get worse despite your best efforts.

Reconnect your battery—but don't just hook it up and hope. Check the terminals for corrosion first. Clean them if needed. Test that your lights, water pump, and other electrics work before you go any further.

Refill your water systems slowly. Turn the water heater back on and let it fill completely. Open each tap one at a time and let the water run until it flows clear. This flushes out any antifreeze and gets rid of stale water that's been sitting in the pipes.

Check your gas system thoroughly. Reconnect bottles, open the cylinder valve, and test for leaks again with soapy water. Light each appliance and make sure everything's working properly. If anything smells off or won't light up, call a professional. Don't take chances with gas.

Give the interior a proper airing before you use it. Open all windows and doors, switch on your blown air heating if you have it, and let fresh air circulate for a few hours. Even with perfect winter preparation, storage smells happen.

Test your accessibility equipment under no load first. Run lifts and ramps through their full range of motion before you actually need them. Listen for unusual noises—grinding, squeaking, or hesitation all mean something needs attention.

Common issues after storage? Seized handbrakes are the classic. If yours won't release, don't force it—you'll damage the cables. Sometimes they just need gentle persuasion and a spray of lubricant. Flat spots on tyres usually sort themselves after a few miles of driving, but check pressures before you move.

When should you call a professional? If you spot water damage inside, if gas appliances won't work properly, if your heating system makes weird noises, or if any accessibility equipment isn't functioning correctly. Some things are DIY-able. Others aren't worth the risk.

Top tip: Do your spring checks a week before your first planned trip, not the night before. That gives you time to sort problems without the stress.

Winter Storage Myths Debunked

There's a lot of dodgy advice floating around about winter storage. Let's clear up the worst of it.

"You must start the engine and run it monthly." 

Not necessarily. If you've prepped properly—battery disconnected or on trickle charge, fuel stabiliser added, everything protected—your engine will be fine sitting still. Starting it occasionally without driving just pumps moisture into the exhaust system. If you do start it, drive it properly for at least 20 minutes. Idling on the drive achieves nothing useful.

"Plastic sheeting makes a good cheap cover." 

No. It doesn't breathe. At all. You'll trap moisture underneath and create the perfect environment for mould and corrosion. Plastic tarps are worse than no cover. They also shred in the wind and can actually scratch your paintwork. Spend money on a proper breathable caravan cover or don't bother.

"Tyres don't matter if the caravan's not moving." 

They absolutely do. Flat spots develop from sitting in one position under load. UV damage happens even in winter. Tyre walls can crack if they're not protected. Move the caravan occasionally, keep pressures high, or use axle stands. Your tyres will thank you.

"A cold caravan can't get damp." 

Completely wrong. Damp doesn't need warmth—it just needs moisture and poor ventilation. Temperature changes create condensation. Even in freezing weather, moisture can build up inside a sealed caravan. That's why air circulation matters so much, regardless of temperature.

"Covering windows blocks UV damage." 

True, but internal covers create condensation traps. If you're using window covers, make sure air can still circulate behind them. External covers work better—they block UV without creating moisture problems inside.

"You should empty the toilet chemical flush." 

Actually, leaving a small amount of chemical in the flush tank can help prevent seals drying out. Just make sure it's proper winter-grade fluid that won't freeze. Empty the cassette completely, though—that definitely needs to be bone-dry.

"Insurance companies don't care about storage." 

They care a lot. Many policies have specific requirements about security measures, storage locations, and even how long you can leave a caravan unused. Check your caravan insurance terms. Getting this wrong can void your cover entirely.

Top tip: When you hear conflicting advice, ask yourself: does this person understand why they're recommending it, or are they just repeating something they heard? Understanding the reason behind the advice helps you judge if it's actually valid.

What If You're Using Your Caravan Through Winter?

Not everyone puts their caravan to bed for winter. Some of you are properly committed to year-round adventures. Fair play—but active winter use needs different preparation.

Insulation becomes crucial when you're actually living in the space. Check your existing insulation for gaps or damage. Consider adding thermal screens for windows—they make a massive difference to heat retention. Carpet or rugs on the floor help too. Heat rises, but cold comes up through the floor.

Your heating system needs to work perfectly, not just adequately. Service it before winter hits properly. Stock up on gas bottles—you'll use more than you think. If you've got blown air heating, make sure all vents are clear and the system's ducting is intact. Diesel heaters need their fuel supply checking and filters cleaning.

Preventing pipes from freezing while you're using the caravan is different from storage prep. Keep some heating on constantly when temperatures drop below freezing, even if it's just frost protection mode. Insulate exposed pipes if you can. Know where your main drain-down points are, just in case.

Managing condensation during occupancy is your biggest challenge. You're breathing, cooking, showering—all creating moisture. Ventilate constantly. Crack a window even when it's freezing. Use your roof vents. Wipe down cold surfaces daily to prevent moisture building up. A dehumidifier running overnight helps enormously.

If you're on a site with electric hook-up, use it. Running heating off electric rather than gas reduces condensation significantly. Gas heating produces water vapour as it burns—electricity doesn't.

Protect your water systems from freezing overnight. If temperatures are dropping seriously low, leave taps dripping slightly. Moving water freezes slower. Keep cupboard doors under the sink open so warm air can circulate around pipes.

Your accessibility equipment needs extra care during active winter use. Electronics and hydraulics both hate extreme cold. If you've got wheelchair lifts or powered ramps, check them before each use. Cold affects battery performance and can make mechanisms sluggish.

Road salt is vicious. If you're towing in winter, wash your caravan's chassis and hitch regularly. Salt left sitting on metal components will corrode them fast. Pay special attention to brake mechanisms and anything that moves.

Top tip: Keep emergency supplies in your caravan—extra blankets, a backup heater, spare gas bottle, and plenty of fresh water. Winter breakdowns are less forgiving than summer ones.

Ready for a Worry-Free Winter?

You might be thinking: "That's a lot to remember—what if I forget something important?" That's natural. Your caravan represents freedom, independence, and adventures you've worked hard to make possible. Protecting it matters.

But here's what you've just learned: winterising isn't overwhelming when you break it down. Drain your water systems, protect against damp; care for your bodywork, safeguard your accessible equipment. Simple steps that add up to total peace of mind.

Picture this: Spring arrives. You walk up to your caravan knowing everything's exactly as you left it. No damp smell. No frozen damage. No nasty surprises. Just your home on wheels, ready for another season of exploring exactly where you want to go, exactly how you want to get there.

That's freedom that lasts. And it starts with the care you give it today.

Need your caravan, motorhome or campervan serviced? Book yourself in at our service centre here!

Your Winter Caravan Questions Answered

What's the proper way to winterise a caravan?

It's simpler than you think. Drain all water systems completely - tanks, pipes, taps, and your water heater. Add non-toxic antifreeze to protect against any residual moisture. Clean everything thoroughly, remove all food, and leave doors ajar for air circulation. 

Disconnect your battery and store it somewhere dry. Cover your caravan with a breathable, waterproof cover. That's the core of it. The key is being thorough - missing one step can undo all your hard work.

What stops damp building up during winter storage?

Air circulation is your best friend here. Leave wardrobe doors open, cupboards slightly ajar, and fridge doors propped open. Use moisture traps or dehumidifiers inside - they catch condensation before it turns into a problem. 

Never seal your caravan up completely. It needs to breathe. Think of it like this: a sealed caravan is like wearing a plastic bag in the rain. Everything that evaporates has nowhere to go, so it just settles on your walls and soft furnishings.

How can I keep my stored caravan warmer through winter?

Here's the counterintuitive bit: you don't really want to. Heating an unused caravan creates condensation, which leads straight back to damp problems. 

If you're genuinely using your caravan through the winter months, that's different - service your heating system before the cold hits and make sure your gas supply is working properly. 

But for storage? Focus on protection, not warmth. A good caravan cover and proper ventilation matter more than temperature.

Is it worth taking the wheels off for winter?

You don't need to remove them completely, but taking weight off the tyres helps. Use axle stands if you're storing for long periods - this prevents flat spots and protects your suspension. 

If axle stands aren't practical, just move your caravan slightly every few weeks to rotate where the tyres touch the ground. Keep them inflated to maximum pressure, too. Removing wheels entirely is overkill unless you're storing somewhere with serious security concerns.

Can T-cut safely be used on caravan bodywork?

Yes, but carefully. T-cut works well on older gelcoat finishes to remove oxidation and minor scratches. Test it on a small, hidden area first - some modern caravan finishes don't react well to abrasive cleaners. 

Use it sparingly and follow up with a proper caravan wax or sealant. T-cut removes material, so you're essentially polishing away a thin layer. Do it too often or too aggressively, and you'll wear through your protective coating.

Should I leave windows cracked open during storage?

This divides opinion, but here's the practical answer: it depends on your storage situation. If you're in secure indoor storage, leaving windows slightly open helps air circulation and prevents condensation. 

If you're storing outside or in an unsecured area, keep them closed for security and weather protection. Use internal ventilation instead - roof vents left open do a brilliant job without compromising security. Never leave windows open in exposed outdoor storage. Rain will find its way in.

Will a dehumidifier actually solve damp problems?

Dehumidifiers catch moisture brilliantly, but they're not magic. They work best as part of a proper winter care routine - not as a standalone solution. 

If you've already got damp or water ingress, a dehumidifier won't fix the root cause. It'll catch condensation, yes, but you still need good air circulation, proper drainage, and sealed bodywork. 

Think of dehumidifiers as insurance, not a cure. They're excellent at preventing problems, less effective at solving existing ones.

Does the salt bowl trick really work for condensation?

It does, surprisingly well, actually. Salt absorbs moisture from the air - it's basic chemistry. 

A bowl of ordinary table salt placed inside your caravan will gradually draw in condensation and dissolve into a salty puddle. It's cheap, chemical-free, and genuinely effective for small spaces. Silica gel packets work on the same principle. 

Just remember to check and replace them regularly. One bowl won't handle an entire caravan, but several strategically placed ones make a noticeable difference. 

Top tip: This works best alongside proper ventilation, not instead of it.